If there is one embroidery style that has stood the test of time, graced the courts of Mughal emperors, and found its way into the wardrobes of British South Asian women today, it is chikankari. This delicate, shadow-work embroidery from the city of Lucknow is one of India's most treasured craft traditions — and right now, it is having a major moment in South Asian fashion.
- Chikankari is a hand embroidery tradition from Lucknow, India, with over 400 years of history.
- The word chikan is believed to derive from the Persian word for fine embroidery work.
- Authentic chikankari uses up to 32 different hand stitches on fine fabrics like georgette, muslin, and chiffon.
- It is now a staple of modern South Asian occasion wear and modest fashion in the UK.
- Chikankari pairs beautifully with palazzos, salwar suits, and lehengas for summer events.
What Is Chikankari?
Chikankari is a style of hand embroidery originating from Lucknow in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It is characterised by intricate floral and botanical patterns worked with fine thread — traditionally white on white, though today it appears in a rainbow of colours. What makes chikankari unique is the sheer variety of stitches involved: skilled artisans use up to 32 different hand stitches, each creating a different texture or shadow effect on the fabric.
The result is embroidery that feels almost sculptural — raised in places, shadow-like in others — and extraordinarily delicate. Unlike heavy zardozi or bold mirror work, chikankari speaks softly. Its elegance is understated, which is precisely why it has endured for centuries.
A History Woven in Royalty
The origins of chikankari are the subject of much debate among historians, but most accounts trace it back to the Mughal period of the 17th century. One popular legend credits Nur Jahan, the powerful wife of Emperor Jahangir, with introducing the craft to India after encountering similar embroidery techniques in Persia. Whether or not the legend is accurate, chikankari flourished under Mughal patronage, becoming synonymous with the refined cultural life of Lucknow's Nawabs.
The Nawabs of Awadh — who ruled from Lucknow and were famous for their love of art, poetry, and exquisite dress — elevated chikankari to an art form. Their court garments, especially the angarkha (a long tunic), were heavily embellished with chikankari worked on the finest muslin cloth. At its peak, Lucknow's chikankari workshops employed thousands of artisans and were exporting to royal courts across the subcontinent.
When British colonial rule disrupted traditional patronage systems in the 19th century, the craft went through a difficult period. Many artisans fell into poverty. But chikankari survived, kept alive largely by the women of Lucknow who passed techniques down through generations in their homes.
Chikankari in the 20th Century and Beyond
The revival of chikankari as a mainstream fashion choice owes much to Indian cinema. Bollywood films set in Lucknow — particularly those depicting the Nawabi era — brought chikankari into living rooms across South Asia and the diaspora. Stars like Rekha and later Madhuri Dixit wore iconic chikankari ensembles that lodged themselves in cultural memory.
By the 1990s and 2000s, Indian fashion designers had fully embraced chikankari, repositioning it from folk craft to high fashion. Today, it appears on international runways and in the collections of some of South Asia's most celebrated designers. In the UK, chikankari has become a popular choice for summer weddings, Eid celebrations, and any occasion where a woman wants to look elegant without the heaviness of heavier embellishment.
Why Chikankari Works So Well in the UK
For British South Asian women, chikankari offers something genuinely special: it is light, breathable, and appropriate for the British summer — which, let's be honest, we need to make the most of when it arrives. The fine georgette and chiffon fabrics on which chikankari is most commonly worked move beautifully and keep you cool at outdoor melas, garden receptions, and summer nikkahs.
Beyond practicality, chikankari has a timelessness that heavier embroidered pieces sometimes lack. A well-chosen chikankari salwar suit or palazzo set can be dressed up for a formal occasion with gold jewellery and heels, or kept simple with flats and minimal accessories for a daytime event. It is, in the truest sense, versatile ethnic wear.
How to Wear Chikankari in 2026
The modern approach to chikankari is less about tradition and more about expression. Here are a few ways British South Asian women are wearing it right now:
- Tonal dressing: Wearing chikankari in a single colour — all ivory, all sage green, all blush — feels incredibly modern and effortless.
- Coloured chikankari on coloured fabric: The traditional white-on-white has evolved. Thread in contrasting or tonal hues on georgette creates a bolder, more contemporary look.
- Chikankari with contemporary silhouettes: Pair a chikankari kurta with wide-leg palazzo trousers for a look that is South Asian in spirit but unmistakably current.
- Layering with dupattas: A sheer chikankari dupatta layered over a plainer suit adds depth without weight — perfect for UK summer evenings.
Caring for Chikankari
Because authentic chikankari involves fine hand embroidery on delicate fabrics, it does require a little extra care. Always opt for gentle hand washing or dry cleaning, and never wring the fabric. Store flat or lightly folded, away from direct sunlight, to preserve both the embroidery threads and the base fabric. Treated well, a quality chikankari piece will last for years.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is chikankari only white on white?
Traditionally, yes — but modern chikankari comes in a full spectrum of colours. Today you will find thread work in gold, pastels, and vibrant jewel tones on coloured georgette and chiffon.
Is chikankari suitable for winter?
Chikankari is at its best in spring and summer due to the light fabrics involved. For winter events, look for heavier base fabrics like velvet with chikankari detailing.
How can I tell if chikankari is handmade?
Authentic hand chikankari has subtle irregularities that machine embroidery cannot replicate. The stitches will have a natural variation and the underside of the fabric will show the thread path clearly.
Explore Chikankari-Inspired Occasion Wear at Zahra London
At Zahra London, we celebrate the beauty of traditional South Asian craft in every piece we curate. Whether you are looking for a show-stopping outfit for a summer wedding, a relaxed Eid look, or something elegant for a family occasion, our collection of ethnic wear for women in the UK draws on the finest South Asian craftsmanship — including the kind of delicate embroidery detail that chikankari has inspired for centuries. Browse the full collection at zahralondon.com and find your next statement piece.